Lemon Focaccia

It is Meyer Lemon season. I have been in love with Meyer Lemons since I was a little girl. My great grandmother had an ever bearing Meyer. Coming from a citrus family has advantages. I wonder how that 60+ year old tree in Glendora, California  is doing now. I do lots with the lemons on my tree and those I buy to supplement my habit. Here is what I did with some of them yesterday.

Meyer Lemon Focaccia

Ingredients:

Makes 1 focaccia.

• 1 package (1/4 ounce) instant yeast or 2 1/2 teaspoons if you use bulk
• 5 cups all-purpose flour, preferably organic
• 2 1/2 teaspoons sea salt
• Olive oil, for bowl and baking sheet
• 1/2 cup mozzarella or pecorino toscano thinly shredded
• 2 lemons, very thinly sliced crosswise
• about a tablespoon of fresh rosemary
• 1-2 meyer lemons sliced thinly and seeded
• Parmigiano Reggiano cheese to grate over the top
• 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper (more if you like a kick)
• thinly sliced sweet onion

3-4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (I use smoked)

*Note: It is best to use very fresh lemons for this, as older lemons rinds become difficult to chew.

Method:

1. In a large bowl, or in a bowl of a stand mixer, combine yeast and 2 1/2 cups flour with 2 cups water; whisk to combine. Let stand 15 minutes.
2. Add remaining 2 1/2 cups flour and salt; mix until well combined. Change to the dough hook if using a stand mixer. If using the mixer, knead with the mixer. If doing by hand, turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface; knead until wet and tacky, but not sticky, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a well-oiled bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let stand until doubled in size, 3 1/2 to 4 hours.
   
3. Scatter semolina on a large rimmed baking sheet and press dough evenly into baking sheet. Let rise until puffy, about 1 hour.
4. Preheat oven to 500 degrees.
5. “Dimple the dough with your fingers  Drizzle some olive oil on the dough. Cover dough lightly with Pecorino or Mozzarella  and lemon slices, then sprinkle with rosemary and pepper; drizzle with more extra-virgin olive oil. Gate a little Parm over the top.
   
6. Transfer to oven and bake for 15 minutes. Rotate baking sheet, and continue baking until lemons and crust are golden brown, about 15 minutes more.
   
7. Remove bread from baking sheet and transfer to a wire rack to cool at least 10 minutes before serving.
   

Aloha Rolls

Posted on March 5, 2012 by devany

Aloha Rolls

These slightly sweet rolls are quick and easy to make. They freeze well and the dough can be saved in the refrigerator for up to a week so you can make them fresh for each meal. If you want a more traditional Hawaiian Sweet Bread Roll add another egg or two.

Ingredients:
3 (1/4 ounce) packages active dry yeast or about 1 tablespoon 1 cup lukewarm water (105 to 115 F)
1/4 cup canola oil
1 large egg
3/4 cup raw sugar or honey
1 1/2 cups warm water (more if needed)
6 1/2-7 cups bread flour
1 teaspoon sea salt
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Butter

Method:

• Dissolve the yeast in a large mixing bowl with 1 cup of lukewarm water and let it stand for about 5 minutes
• Add the oil, egg, sugar or honey, salt and the rest of the water and mix it with a whisk, let stand again for a few minutes
• Add the flour and mix on medium with a dough hook until the dough forms a ball. It should be a moist dough, but not very sticky. Add a little more flour if needed. Allow the dough to rest for 15 minutes then knead  for 5 minutes
• Put a small circle of olive oil in the bottom of a large bowl and put the ball of dough smooth side down into the bowl, then flip it over and cover with plastic wrap. And allow to rise for 90 minutes or until doubled
  
• Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit and get a large sheet pan spray with cooking spray or line with partchment paper or silicone mat
• Punch down the dough and pinch off pieces of the dough and roll into golf ball size for dinner rolls or “slider” buns, or tennis ball sizes for sandwich rolls. Arrange the dough on the pan about 1-2 inches apart then cover with plastic wrap that has been sprayed with olive oil or Pam. Allow to rise for 20 minutes. The rolls will not quite double in bulk on the second rising
  
• Bake rolls for 18 to 30 (shorter time for small rolls) mintues or until golden brown. When they come out of the oven brush lightly with olive oil or take a stick of butter and rub on the tops. You can also add seeds to the tops immediately after buttering. These can also be made into hot dog buns by making 4″ X 1 1/2 inch torpedo shapes and allowing to rise in the same manner. They make AWESOME hamburger buns too!
  

Sourdough Starter Day 2,3 & 4

Here is how we got to this point: Making Sourdough Starter
Day Two: While you may not notice much change at this point. I noticed a huge difference. In 48 hours my starter had already formed bubbles and increased in size by about 20%. Pour the contents of the jar into a mixing bowl and add 1 cup of bread flour plus 1/2 cup of room temperature pineapple juice.  Mix until all ingredients are evenly distributed.  Wash and dry your glass container and then scrape the mixture into the container.  Mark and cover the container just like day one.  Allow it to rest at room temperature for 24 hours.

Day Three: Boy did I see changes! My dough overflowed the jar overnight. It was a huge mess and I decided that the natural yeast in our area and the heat/humidity (78-81 degrees and 40% humidity) probably contributed to the action going on in my starter. I decided to work in a larger bowl for a while to elevate the chances of overflow.

You might be seeing some changes by now. The dough may have raised some and there might be bubbles.  Regardless of whether you notice any fermentation or not, discard half of the mixture (or better yet, give it to a friend to cultivate), and mix the remaining half with 1 cup of bread flour and 1/2 cup room temperature filtered water (chlorine may kill some of the yeast).  Wash and dry the glass container and scrape the mixture into the container.  Mark and cover as before.  Allow to rest at room temperature for 24 hours.

I divided my starter and made some pizza dough with one half using a teaspoon of yeast too. It had GREAT flavor. I am looking forward to the day when I do not need the yeast at all. 

Sourdough Starter Day 1

Two years ago I went on a baking adventure with 100 other food bloggers from around the world. We all baked breads from The Bread Breaker’s Apprentice by Peter Reinhardt. The impetus and inspiration for this blogging and baking adventure was a blogger from San Diego, Nicole Emmert Hamaker  who has the fabulous food blog Pinch My Salt. Nicole is revisiting sourdough and inviting us to join along, and I in turn am asking my blog followers to do the same. Let’s jump on the fermentation wagon together and see what works together.

During the BBA days I did the sourdough starter and kept it going for over a year. And then partly because I live in a warm tropical climate where bread baking is not always conducive, and partly because my business was taking up more of my baking time, I finally threw out the starter.

There are several links on my blog to those baked goods. This is one of my Sourdough Posts from the BBA Days in 2009.

Here is how I made my starter. Today is “Day One”. It will be a few days till I will be baking with it, but I will have some to share in three days.

Sourdough Starter

Day One: In a medium sized bowl, add one cup of whole wheat or whole rye flour (I use organic dark rye) with 3/4 cup (6 oz/small can) canned pineapple juice (at room temperature) until all of the flour is hydrated.  Spoon all of the mixture into a quart-size wide mouth glass container, such as a jar or glass measuring cup with plenty of head space, as this will eventually grow.  Mark the level of the starter with a piece of tape or rubber band. Cover the container with some kind of breathable fabric; paper towel, cheesecloth, or coffee filter and tie or secure with a rubber band.  Allow to rest at room temperature for 24 hours.

Day Two: You may not notice much change at this point.  Pour the contents of the jar into a mixing bowl and add 1 cup of bread flour plus 1/2 cup of room temperature pineapple juice.  Mix until all ingredients are evenly distributed.  Wash and dry your glass container and then scrape the mixture into the container.  Mark and cover the container just like day one.  Allow it to rest at room temperature for 24 hours.

Day Three: You might see some changes by now. The dough may have raised some and there might be bubbles.  Regardless of whether you notice any fermentation or not, discard half of the mixture (or better yet, give it to a friend to cultivate), and mix the remaining half with 1 cup of bread flour and 1/2 cup room temperature filtered water (chlorine may kill some of the yeast).  Wash and dry the glass container and scrape the mixture into the container.  Mark and cover as before.  Allow to rest at room temperature for  24 hours.

Day Four: The mixture should have at least doubled in size at this point.  If it seems to be sluggish and hasn’t doubled in size, allow it to sit at room temperature for another 12 to 24 hours.  You could stir in a teaspoon of raw sugar if it seems to be sluggish. Otherwise, repeat instructions for Day three.

When we get to day five, we will continue together! 

Best Garlic Bread EVER!

The Best Garlic Bread Ever

This is a simple recipe for the best garlic bread you will ever put between your lips.  It is easy to make and will keep away the vampires!  You will need a large baguette; I prefer to get a kind of chewy one, not one that is soft and puffy.

In a sauce pan mix together the following:

• ½ pound of butter (I use clarified butter that I make ahead)
• 20 garlic cloves that have been finely minced
• A tablespoon of dried parsley (fresh is fine too, but you should double it if using fresh)
• ¼ cup olive oil
• 2 tablespoons of freshly ground coarse black pepper
• 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes
• 1-2 tablespoons Lawry’s Garlic Salt
  

Simmer for about 20-30 minutes on low, stirring occasionally. You want to incorporate the flavors as well as cook the garlic a bit. Raw garlic has a bite to it.

Once you have cooked it all down, then use a pastry brush to put it on a baguette cut in half lengthwise.  Make sure you get plenty of the chunky bits of garlic and parsley well distributed.

Bake @ 350 for 15 minutes and then put under the broiler for just a minute to brown. Add lemon zest from one lemon to the top of the bread and prepare to devour!

Pain à l'ancienne: A perfect rustic bread

From The Bread Baker's Apprentice by Peter Reinhart which I have been baking from for a year now, comes pain à l'ancienne, a truly lovely bread, full of texture, delightful crumb and flavor. The secret to this bread comes in the careful handling and retarding the fermenting in a refrigerator. The dough is a wet one and not easy to shape. If you try to shape it much, you will lose the characteristic holes made by the gasses in the bread. It can however be formed into baguettes, focaccia, pizza, ciabatta, pugliese, stirao & pain rustique, all of which are favorite breads of mine. In this case I did baguettes, but I plan to use this formula over and over again in different ways. 


I have been involved with a group of food bloggers doing the Bread Bakers Apprentice Challenge for the last year. It was started when one of my favorite food bloogers, Nicole from Pinch My Salt started the challenge. The goal is to bake through the book, one formula at a time, usually once a week. This formula can be found on page 191 of the book. Mr, Reinhart explains a few important things about this bread: 


"The unique delayed-fermentation method, which depends on ice-cold water, releases flavors trapped in flour in a way different from the more traditional twelve-stage method. The final product has a natural sweetness and a nut-like character that is distinct from breads made with exactly the same ingredients but fermented in by the standard method, even with large percentages of pre-ferment. 


This bread shows us another way to manipulate time, and thus outcomes, by manipulating temperature. The cold mixing and fermentation cycles delay the activation of the yeast until after the amylase enzymes have begun their work of breaking out sugar from starch. When the dough is brought to room temperature, and the yeast wakes up and begins feasting, it feeds on sugars that weren't there the day before. Because the yeast has converted less of the released sugar to alcohol and carbon dioxide, a reserve of sugar remains in the fermented dough to flavor it and caramelize the crust during the baking cycle. While this delayed fermentation method does not work for every dough (especially those that are enriched with sugar and other flavor infusing ingredients,) used appropriately, it evokes the fullness of flavor from the wheat beyond any other fermentation method I've encountered." 

The actual method is simple, it takes two days, like most of Mr. Reinhart's formulas, but really, the actual time it takes to make these loaves is minimal. 

6 cups of bread flour are combined with salt, yeast and then ice water. The dough is then immediately placed in an oiled bowl in the refrigerator overnight. The next day the dough has still not doubled in size and it is removed from the refrigerator and allowed to finish the ferment for another 2-3 hours. Once it has developed, then it is carefully placed on a floured counter and cut into the sizes needed for whatever shapes you are making. In this case I cut the dough in half, from one half I made three thinner baguettes and with the other half larger sandwich size baguettes. 

I turned two sheet pans upside down and coated with cornmeal, then placed the cut and formed baguettes on them. 

The dough does not have a second rise at this point, just a rest of 5-10 minutes. It is then hearth baked directly on the hearth stone on parchment with some cornmeal to keep it from sticking, I used a peel to slide the dough on the parch
3 ment to the bottom of the hearth. Steam is incorporated by both a steam pan and spraying the inside of the oven with water. 

Montreal Hilo Bagels

I love bagels. My favorite bagels come from Montreal, not New York. I have actually found that in the last 10 years or so most NY Bagels have taken on the "Supersize me" that has prevailed across America. They are much larger and puffier than they used to be and I believe that they have less texture and crumb. This was evidenced by my last trip to NY a few weeks ago. In Montreal the bagels are still baked in the simple old fashioned way that they were made in Poland. The secret of course is simplicity. They are baked in a wood burning oven there, but this can be replicated somewhat using a baking stone or hearth insert like I use. The recipe is below for you to use as you wish

I have another post about making bagels here in Hawaii that you might enjoy reading. Island Bagels. 

I think you will enjoy this video about my favorite bagel bakery in Montreal. 

Montreal bagels, however, are a different breed, chewy and tinged with a tantalizing sweetness. The real thing is still baked in wood ovens, which give the bagels an irregularly charred outer surface. These bagels shine, too, with a gloss that only a short swim in a bath of honey- or malt-sweetened water can impart. With no chemical additives or dough conditioners, these bagels stand out in taste and looks.

How bagels came to be this way in Montreal is difficult to determine. The recipe was no doubt modeled after the those brought by immigrant families, many of whom opened bagel stores that still exist in the old ethnic neighborhoods. Over time, Montrealers came to enjoy - and expect -bagels in this style, so the tradition continued.

Some people have another explanation. They point out that other cities prohibit wood-burning commercial ovens, because of the fire hazard. Such ovens burn continuously with an unregulated open flame -you can't turn them off, and you can't turn them down. So Montreal has the dubious distinction of having notable bagels and a less-than-stringent fire code.

Bagels are one of those foods that have a certain mystique about them. Because they are readily available in most every city now, people just buy them and never think about making them. However, if you have had TRULY amazing bagels like these before, baked in this style, you will find it nearly impossible to find them anywhere other than Montreal and hence you must make them at home or increase your frequent flyer miles many times over. I have to say that before I started making them myself, every trip to Montreal included a suitcase for the bagels I would run out to St. Viateur Bakery and buy fresh from  the morning of our departure. If you live on the mainland, you can order them online from St. Viateur. Technology is amazing, really. But if you live in Hawaii like me, you are going to have to learn to make them, do without or drop by on baking day.

One note about sweeteners: Professional bakers once relied on honey, since it carries its own characteristic bouquet. Over the years, the price of honey has increased, so now many bakeries use light or dark malt syrup (available in some health-food stores and in those that stock beer-making supplies). Still, you should use honey in the formula and then add the malt syrup to the water. Here in Hawaii we have an abundance of wonderful local honey and the malt syrup has to be shipped in, so honey is preferred and actually about the same cost.

Note about toppings: You can saute finely chopped onions or garlic and add to the top of these as I did, though then they are not authentic Montreal Style. You could also incorporate cheese or sun dried tomatoes if you want American Style. That is not my style though.

MONTREAL STYLE  BAGELS

Preparation time: 45 minutes Cooking time: 25 minutes but I find the flavor is better if you retard the fermenting process by refrigerating the dough. If you want to take this extra step, make  the dough at least 12 hours and up to 24 hours before you plan on baking them. 

Ingredients: 

1 1/2 cups water, room temperature 
2 packages dry quick-rising yeast (or 1 1/2 ounces fresh yeast) 
1 teaspoon sugar 
2 1/2 teaspoons salt 
1 whole egg + 1 egg yolk 
1/4 cup olive oil 
1/2 cup honey 
5 cups or more flour (preferably bread flour) 
3 quarts water for boiling 
1/3 cup honey or malt syrup 
Sesame or poppy seeds for sprinkling on top. These are the only toppings seen in Montreal, but of course if you like onions or garlic or anything else, they can be added instead of the seeds or in combination with them. 

Method: 
1.In a large mixing bowl or in the bowl of an electric mixer that has a dough hook, blend together the water, yeast, sugar and salt. Stir in the whole egg, the yolk, oil and 1/2 cup honey, and mix well.

2.Add the 5 cups flour, and mix until the dough is too stiff to mix by hand. Transfer to a lightly floured work surface (if using electric mixer, attach dough hook), and knead to form a soft, supple dough. Add a bit more flour as needed to prevent dough from getting too sticky. It should be tacky, but not sticky. 

3.When the dough is smooth and elastic, place it in a lightly oiled bowl, and cover with a sheet of plastic wrap or with a plastic bag.

4.Let the dough rest about 20 minutes. Punch it down, and divide into 18 equal portions. Pour the water into a large pot, along with the remaining 1/3 cup honey or malt syrup, and heat to boiling. Cover, reduce the heat, and allow to simmer while preparing the bagels.

5.Shape the dough portions into bagels or doughnutlike rings by elongating each portion into an 8- to 10-inch coil that is 3/4 inch thick. Fold the ends over each other, pressing with the palm of one hand and rolling back and forth gently to seal. This locks the ends together and must be done properly or the bagels will open while being boiled. Let the bagels rest 15 minutes on a baking sheet with parchment or silpat. 

6.Preheat oven to 550 degrees. If you have a pizza stone pre-heat it in the oven.  Bring the water back to a boil and remove the lid. Have bowls of poppy seeds and sesame seeds nearby.

7.When the water is boiling, use a slotted spoon, and add three bagels to the water. As they rise to the surface, turn them over, and let them boil an additional minute before removing them and quickly apply the seeds or other toppings. Continue boiling the bagels in batches of three until all have been boiled and seeded.

8.Just before baking, turn the temperature down to 450 degrees. Arrange the boiled bagels on a baking sheet, and bake on the lowest rack of oven until they are medium brown, approximately 25 minutes. Or using a peel covered with semolina, place the bagels directly onto a pre-heated pizza stone and bake in batches. Allow the oven to regain some of the temperature lost before adding the 2nd batch. Remove from the oven. Once cooled, the bagels can be placed in a plastic bag, sealed and frozen.

Yield: 18 bagels. NOTE: If not using the dough immediately, refrigerate it after it has been kneaded. Bagel making can be resumed up to a day later. Allow the dough to return to room temperature, and continue with step 4.

Real Sourdough Hawaiian Style

Real sourdough bread in Hawaii!!!!

I have heard so many comments about not being able to do sour dough in Hawaii. I also have had people tell me that you have to do it with pineapple juice and others said that it was impossible to get a great crust in our humid conditions. For 8 months I have had three starters fermenting in my fridge. And  today, Marilyn Monroe, my "blonde" starter proved herself a winner. She is a keeper.

My starters all began with Rye flour and pineapple juice, but Marilyn and her blonde self ventured away from the dark rye realm a few months ago when I began feeding her some organic bread flour. I occasionally gave her a teaspoon of raw sugar when I fed her, but not every time.

She liked that.

And so, here she is in her glory... a full  two pound loaf of Marilyn! Crusty, nice crumb but most of all so filled with that amazing sourdough flavor that you cannot find in any bread sold here. The formula comes from Peter Reinhart's book The Bread Baker's Apprentice. I used the food processor instead of my K.A. Stand mixer and I think I like the K.A. better.

If you would like the entire formula, send me an e-mail and I will send it to you. The principles come from the Bread Baker's Apprentice. If you live in Hawaii... I would be glad to share Marilyn with you.