Osso Bucco Island Style

SCORE! A local grocery store randomly has lamb and occasionally veal. When passing through the meat department Friday I spied both ground lamb and osso buco (veal shanks) they were cut in smaller pieces than I usually like, but this is the first time in two years I have spied them in our stores... so I grabbed them. Here is how I prepared them with inspiration from Rick Tramanto, Paul Bertoli, Lidya Bastianch and Mark Bittman.

Osso Buco

INGREDIENTS



Four 12-ounce veal shanks

Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

1 cup vegetable oil

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 carrots, peeled and diced

2 celery ribs, diced

1 yellow onion, diced

8 garlic cloves, sliced

3 anchovies in olive oil

3 tablespoons tomato paste

1 cup dry red wine

4 cups veal stock or chicken stock

3 cups canned plum tomatoes, drained and crushed

2 sprigs fresh thyme

1 sprig fresh rosemary

1 bay leaf 

Gremolada

2 tablespoons grated fresh horseradish (see Note)

2 cloves of garlic finely minced

2 tablespoons grated lemon zest

6 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

METHOD:

1. Lay the veal shanks in a shallow baking pan and sprinkle liberally on both sides with salt. Refrigerate for 2 hours.

2. Rinse the veal shanks of their salt and pat dry with paper towels. Wrap each veal shank once around the circumference so that it holds the bone and meat together in the center. Tie the twine with a good knot. 

Season the veal shanks with pepper.

3. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

4. Heat a large, ovenproof casserole over high heat. Put the oil into the casserole and let it heat.

5. Meanwhile, put the flour in a shallow bowl, dredge the veal shanks in it, and pat off the excess. Brown the veal shanks in the hot oil for about 5 minutes on each side, or until browned on all sides. Remove from the pan and set aside. If the oil turns dark during the process, discard it and heat a fresh cup of oil.

6. Add the carrots, celery, onion, and garlic to the pan and cook over medium-high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the wine, bring to a boil, and cook for about 2 minutes, or until reduced by half.

7. Add the stock, tomato paste, tomatoes, thyme, rosemary, and bay leaf to the pan. Return the veal shanks to the pan and bring to a boil over high heat. Once the liquid boils, cover, transfer to the oven, and cook for 2 1/2 hours, until the meat is fork tender and falling off the bones.

8. Remove the herbs from the braising liquid and discard. Let the veal shanks come to room temperature in the braising liquid. Remove the veal shanks and set aside. Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve or chinois into a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat, and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, or until reduced by a quarter. Using a skimmer or large spoon, skim off any grease or foam that rises to the surface. Return the strained vegetables to the liquid and taste for seasoning.

9. To serve, cut and discard the twine, put a single osso buco (veal shank) in a bowl, and ladle about 3/4 cup of the sauce and vegetables over it. (If the sauce and the meat are not still warm, heat them together very gently over low heat for 8 to 10 minutes.)

10. Combine the lemon zest, horseradish, garlic and parsley to make a gremolada. Add salt and pepper to  taste. Garnish each osso buco with the gremolada. 

Note: If you cannot find fresh horseradish, you can use prepared. It will taste stronger, so it’s a good idea to wrap the horseradish in a double thickness of cheesecloth and squeeze out the excess liquid.

Wordless Wednesday: My Greek Supper

Greek Lemon and RIce Soup with Meyer Lemons 

Spanakopita!!!

Grilled Tequila Lime Chicken & Ohelo Berry Sauce

Grilled Tequila Lime Chicken with Ohelo Berry & Pineapple Sauce

I have been working on some Ohelo Berry ideas for the USDA. They are experimenting with growing them as a crop for the first time. This is one of many recipes that I developed using the ohelo berry. Unless you live in Hawaii, you are out of luck for sourcing this berry. It grows wild in mid-high elevations here. It is much like a cross between a cranberry and a currant. It has a slight tangy taste with sweet after notes, but does not  have a huge stand alone flavor on it's own. Thanks to Nancy Botticelli of Waimea for providing me with an abundance of her beautiful limes to play with too. 

Marinade: 

1/2 cup tequilla

1/2 cup lime juice

1/2 cup of honey slightly heated

4-6 Boneless Chicken Breasts or thighs. 

Sauce: 

1/4 cup finely diced shallots

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 cup of reserved marinade with 1 tablespoon cornstarch stirred in

1/2 cup grilled pineapple cut into medium dice (about the size of the berries.) 

1/2 cup Ohelo Berries (whole)

Marinate chicken in the marinade for 30-45 minutes (no more or the lime will start breaking down the chicken.)

Remove chicken from the marinade and prepare the sauce by adding all ingredients and cooking on low heat till slightly thickened. Keep out the Ohelo Berries till just before serving to maintain color and texture. 

Grill the chicken and then serve with the sauce. 

Wordless Wednesday: Moonbeams

Chiles en Nogada

Chiles en Nogada

I first learned how to make Chiles en Nogada while in Cooking School inCuernavaca Mexico. This is a signature dish of the state of Puebla and more particularly the Morelos region and it is traditionally made in August and September to celebrated Mexican Independence. I also make it for Christmas because it is a treasured dish in my family. It was served the first time to entertain the emperor Agustin de Iturbide. The name comes from the Spanish word for the walnut tree, nogal. 


It represents the flag of Mexico, with the red, green and white colors. This recipe serves 8 people and takes about 3 hours to make, it is one of those dishes that is well worth the effort. 


The picadillo contains fruits, nuts, meats and herbs, stuffed into slightly spicy poblano chiles and topped with a velvety walnut cream sauce studded with fresh pomegranate seeds, it is both delicious and beautiful.  

Here my son works diligently removing the skins of the walnuts

Walnuts for the sauce: 
2 cups (7 ounces) walnut halves and pieces, you’ll need 50 (about 1 ½  pounds) very fresh walnuts in their shells 

For the chiles and pork-and-fruit stuffing:
1 1/2 pounds ground pork shoulder with 2 ounces of chopped ham (or equal parts of veal, beef & pork with two ounces of chopped ham)
3 tablespoons lard or oil
2 large garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 small white onion, diced
16 very large (about 2 pounds) fresh poblano chiles, choose good-looking chiles with their stems intact if possible
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 Cups of chicken broth
½ cup raisins rehydrated in hot water & drained
2 generous tablespoons dried mango, candied biznaga cactus or citron, cut into 1/4 -inch dice 
1 small pear, peeled, cored and cut into 1/4 - inch dice
1 small Jonathan or McIntosh apple, peeled, cored and cut into 1/4 - inch dice
2 medium fresh peaches (or extra pears or apples), peeled, pitted and cut into 1/4 - inch dice
1 ripe, medium-small tomato, seeded and roughly chopped
1 teaspoon dried marjoram or Mexican Oregano
A pinch of saffron
A pinch of ground cloves
A pinch of ground cumin
2 teaspoons dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, preferably freshly ground Mexican canela
Salt, about 1 generous teaspoon
1/3 cup (about 1 3/4 ounces) silvered blanched almonds.
1 ripe, medium-size plantain, peeled and cut into 1/4 - inch dice.
For finishing the sauce:
1 to 1 1/2 cups milk
1 slice firm white bread, crusts removed
1 tablespoon sugar
Salt, about 1/2 generous teaspoon
1 cup of dry brandy
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon, preferable freshly ground Mexican canela
1/2 cup heavy (whipping) cream or Mexican crema or crema fresca

For the garnish: 1 pomegranate
8 sprigs flat-leaf parsley


1. Peeling the walnuts. If using mature-green walnuts, break away the soft, green, outer layer with your hands. Working with 5 or 6 at a time, crack open the nuts, remove the meats in the largest pieces possible. Drop the walnut pieces into a small pan of boiling water, immediately remove with a slotted spoon to a paper towel, then peel: the thin, brown skin that covers each piece will peel off in fairly large pieces if the nuts are very fresh; use a small pick or pointed trussing needle to help lift the skin out of the crevices. Continue until all are peeled. Store the nuts in a bowl of milk. 


2.  Heat the onions and garlic in the oil till the onions are translucent. Add the meats and then the tomatoes. Add the chicken broth and cook till most of the broth has evaporated and the meat has become tender

3. Roasting the chiles. The open flame method: Place chiles directly over the gas flame or on a medium hot charcoal or gas grill. Roast, turning occasionally, until blistered and blackened on all sides but not soft, about 5 minutes. The broiler method: Lay chiles on a baking sheet set about 4 inches below a preheated broiler. Roast, turning occasionally until blistered and blackened on all sides but not soft, about 10 minutes. Place in a plastic shopping bag to steam. Peel the charred skin off the chiles and rinse them if necessary. Make a long slit in the side of each chile and carefully remove the seeds and veins. Do not run under water, as tempting as it seems, as that removes the wonderful charred flavor of the chiles. An alternative method that my friend Zarela Martinez suggested is to fry the chiles instead of char them on the fire, this is supposed to help them stay together better. I have tried both methods and I think she is right, though I really love the charred taste when done on the grill. I just do more peppers than I need and if some fall apart, I use them for other things like shrimp salad and quesadillas. 

4. The stuffing. Before you start cooking, complete all the initial peeling, coring & chopping  of the stuffing ingredients (put the fruit in a little sprite to prevent browning, though a little oxidizing of the apples and pears won’t spoil the appearance of the dish.)
Into the meat, stir in the raisins, candied fruit, pear, apple, peach, the tomato, herbs and cinnamon. Mix well, reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the skillet and simmer until the apple and pear are tender (but not mushy) and the flavors are blended, about 10 minutes. Season with salt, usually a generous teaspoon.
While the meat mixture is simmering, heat  2 tablespoons of oil in a medium-small skillet over medium heat. Add the almonds and fry, stirring nearly constantly, until they are a deep golden color, about 3 minutes; remove with a slotted spoon and cool. Add the diced plantain to the skillet and stir it frequently until nicely browned and sweet, 3 or 4 minutes. Add to the meat mixture along with the almonds. Remove the filling from the heat and let cool uncovered. (There will be about 6 cups).
5. Stuffing the chiles. Stuff the chiles with cooled filling, packing it in well and re-forming them in their original shape. Place on a baking sheet and cover with foil.
6. Completing the sauce. Within a couple of hours of serving, prepare the sauce. Put the peeled walnuts into a blender jar along with 1 cup of milk (from soaking the walnuts), the bread, sugar, salt, brandyand spices. Blend until a drop of the puree no longer feels gritty when rubbed between your fingers (this will be more successful with the mature-green walnuts); if the mixture should clog in the machine or if only the mixture at the bottom is moving through the blades, add more milk a little at a time, until all the mixture is moving through the blades again. Finally add the cream and blend for just a few seconds; add additional milk if necessary to achieve a medium consistency. Taste for salt and sugar; the sauce should have a slightly sweet edge with just enough salt to bring up the flavor of the walnuts. Set aside at room temperature.
7. Finishing the dish. Half an hour before serving, place the chiles in a 250-degree oven to heat through. Break the pomegranate apart under water, pick out all the seeds and place them in a small dish.

When you are ready to serve, add a little cream to the sauce if it is thicker than a medium-consistency custard sauce. Place 1 or 2 chiles (depending on how you have chosen to serve them) on each warm dinner plate. Spoon the room-temperature sauce over the warm chiles, generously covering them half away from the stem. Sprinkle the sauce generously with the pomegranate seeds, garnish with the parsley, and serve at once. Or, you can serve them traditionally on a round plate with the chiles in a circle.


COOK’S NOTES: Timing and advance preparation: Start a day or so ahead, peeling the walnuts (allow 1 1/2 to 2 hours); they will keep for a couple days in the refrigerator tightly wrapped. Finishing the dish will require a little less than 2 hours. The chiles may be prepared and the stuffing made a couple of days in advance; store them separately, covered and refrigerated. Complete Steps 5 through 7 shortly before serving; the sauce can gray if prepared too far ahead.

Wordless Wednesday: My girl Valentine

You can find Valentine on Facebook!Click here.