Angel Oak Restaurant: Charleston

JUL30

Charleston’s Newest Restaurant

Posted on July 30, 2012 by Devany

Charleston’s Newest Restaurant

There are some new kids on the block. I say kids because Nicole and Jay Kees are at least as young as my adult children. Though they are well seasoned food adventurers who arrived in Charleston, South Carolina just 12 weeks ago to open their new eatery, Angel Oak Restaurant.  I was invited to attend a media dinner at Angel Oak last night and I was pleasantly pleased. It is not just the interesting locally based seasonal food that caught my eye, but attention to the smallest details in the choices for decor and service ware. The restaurant has a very personal feel to it and that is because everything in it was hand picked from antique markets in upstate New York before the Kees moved to Charleston. Antique bottles filled with herbs are on each table and in window frames, the tables which are covered in brown paper are set with vintage china and when you order coffee, the cream comes in old pint milk bottles. The toile banquettes were hand made by the couple, chairs bought on Craigs List and antique doors provide cover for the busing station. Though the mason jar drinking glasses are a southern staple, the decor is fresh, art filled and not at all cloying.

Now, let’s talk about the food. The Angel Oak Restaurant has a seasonal locally inspired menu which is printed up daily. All pasta is made in house. Sauces & condiments are made from scratch and interestingly presented. Their supper menu includes appetizers such as oysters on the half shell with fresh horseradish, champagne mignonette ($7), deep fried bacon drizzled with a Buffalo sauce served with home made blue cheese dressing ($6), Port Wine Pate fresh creamy chicken liver pate, green tomato chow-chow, pickled vegetables, selection of mustards, toast points ($8) and Lobster Mac with fresh lobster, creamy herbed champagne cheese sauce and a baked panko crust ($12) among other offerings.

Port Wine Pate~fresh creamy chicken liver pate, green tomato chow-chow
pickled vegetables, selection of mustards, toast points

They also have a fun “snack” menu for just $3 you can have a taste of House-Made Ricotta with toast points and local honey,  Fried Green Tomatoes, Deviled Eggs and Yorkshire Pudding with Gravy. It is a playful way to taste some really interesting flavors. At our table the house made ricotta was a big hit.

House made ricotta with honey

Fried Bacon with Buffalo Sauce and house made blue cheese
Pate with house made pickles, mustard and green tomato chow chow

Entrees, salads and sandwiches fill out the rest of the supper menu. The entrees vary from Southern staples (Chef Kees is from Southern Missisippi and trained at the C.I.A.) to interesting plays of local ingredients. Their stellar Buttermilk Fried Chicken, drizzled with five spice herb honey served with  macaroni and cheese gratin and collard greens ($17) made several diners smile. Shrimp Carbonara with sautéed Low Country shrimp, house made pasta with peas, roasted lardons of local bacon tossed in a creamy herb sauce ($16). My Steak Au Poivre; seared peppercorn crusted local grass fed sirloin finished with a brandy cream sauce were served with herbed shoestring fries in a brown paper bag ($21) was a perfectly cooked medium rare. Other offerings round out the supper menu. Sides ($3) include herbed shoestring fries, macaroni and cheese gratin, roasted corn on the cob,creamed smashed potatoes, stone ground grits, braised carrots, collard greens & seasonal vegetables.

Classic Steak Au Poivre ~ seared peppercorn crusted sirloin finished with a brandy cream sauce & herbed shoestring fries

Perfectly cooked crispy fries served in a brown paper bag

After all of that good food, it might be difficult to save room for dessert, but their banana pudding served in a jelly jar was worth the extra calories.

Banana Puddiing

Restaurant owners: Executive Chef Jay Kees and Manager Nicole Kees

Sunday Brunch is served from 10-4, Lunch is served buffet style with lemonade or tea from 11-4 Tuesday-Friday ($8.95~ call for menu items as they change daily) and dinner is available Tuesday-Thursday till 9 and Friday-Saturday till 10. Angel Oak is located near Johns Island, 3669 Savannah Highway Johns Island, SC 29455. Indoor and out door seating is available. For reservations call 843) 556-7525. Go to Facebook and “like” Angel Oak Restaurant to stay in the loop on what is happening at this fun new dining spot.

If you are not from Charleston, you might want to read more about the namesake of this restaurant, the Angel Oak Tree. It is thought to be the oldest living organism East of the Mississippi River.

The original Angel Oak on Johns Island, SC

I am looking forward to return visits and having a chance to taste more of Chef Kee’s creations. I will be sharing them with you then.

Silent Sunday: Best thing I ate this week

Goat cheese ravioli with corn butter, fresh corn broth, edamame, baby mushrooms, corn  & lobster at  Manta

Manicotti and Caprese Salad

Last night’s dinner was a visit to Italy. I made four cheese manicotti topped with a sauce from my garden tomatoes and a Caprese Salad with some local Heirloom tomatoes. It really is pretty simple. First start off with a basic sugo, a tomato sauce that you have made ahead, great for using leftover sauce. You can even use a good quality canned sauce if you wish. 

 Manicotti

Filling:

·         1 cup mascarpone cheese

·         1 cup finely grated parmesan

·         1 cup grated mozzarella

·         2 cups fresh ricotta

·         1 egg

·         Zest from a large lemon, preferably a Meyer Lemon

·         LOTS  of freshly ground black pepper, at least a tablespoon

·         A pinch of crushed red pepper

·         ¼ cup chopped fresh Italian Parsley

·         Pinch of salt

Mix together in a food processor and then put into a pastry bag.

Assembly:

Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees

Boil manicotti till al dente. Strain and rinse in cold water till cool enough to touch.

Holding a manicotti tube, insert the pastry bag as far into the tube as you can without tearing the bag. Fill, making sure there are no gaps. Turn to the other side and fill it.

Lay each filled pasta on a pool of sauce in a 9 X 9 pan (this makes two pans full, one for tonight and one for tomorrow, or you can do it all in a larger pan) until the pan is full. Repeat with second pan. Place the pans in the oven and bake for 45 minutes. Allow to rest for 15 minutes before serving. 

I served it with a caprese salad with garden fresh heirloom tomoatoes and garlic bread.

For more of my Italian favorites made in Hawaii... check out these links:

A Tale of Two Pies,  Gnocchi in Sage Cream Sauce,  Garlic and Lemon Crabs, 

Chestnut Pasta and Paradise Pesto,  Spaghetti with Gorgonzola Macadamia Nut Sauce or  

Eggplant Rollatini 

Farmer's Luncheon at the Four Seasons

I had the incredible opportunity to be invited to a luncheon celebrating the local 160 farmers, ranchers and producers that Four Seasons Hualalai's Executive Chef James Babian works with. I was already aware that Jim had an extensive commitment to local and sustainable food, but I really did not understand how many farmers, ranchers and producers were involved in meeting the goal of serving up 75% local food to the guests at the Four Seasons Hualalai. That is an incredible ratio, one that is larger than any other resort on the big island, perhaps in all of Hawaii.

Chef Babian and his staff created a luncheon of local and sustainable foods to thank the people that provide them with so much. While any meal I have at the Four Seasons is a true delight, this one seemed to me to be extra special because I was dining with the people who grew the lettuces, vegetables, fruits, meats, and multiple other things that we were treated to. So many comments were made by these purveyors about how they had never been recognized in such a way and how the luncheon was a very special event for them. 

The luncheon was also a symposium about local food and there was a great deal of input about the incredible array of items that are produced right here on the big island. Everything from Ice Cream to Wild Boar was discussed and on the menu. A "wish list" was provided for the guests, to let them know what additional items are needed in quantity to provide for the needs of the food service at the Four Seasons Hualalai. I have a feeling that  the 75% ratio is going to climb in the coming year. Our island is immense and has so many elevations and an agrarian history that goes all the way back to King Kamehameha. With our climate and so many farmer's dedicated to producing quality produce, meats like wild boar and beef cheeks and processed foods like ice cream, chocolate and goat cheese we are so fortunate.

I would personally like to thank Chef Babian for his commitment to local and sustainable food and for the generosity of the Four Seasons to host such a luncheon with such aloha. I am honored to have attended and I treasure the many new friends I made while dining and taking photos.

For related posts, see the story of Chef Babian's fabulous Avocado Luncheon served up for the American Culinary Federadion's Kona Kohala Chefs or check out my blog on my day spent with Nick Matracusa the Chef of Beach Tree restaurant at the Four Seasons Hualalai. We made Gnocchi and tasted many of the fun dishes that Nick and his staff have created.

Grilled Tequila Lime Chicken & Ohelo Berry Sauce

Grilled Tequila Lime Chicken with Ohelo Berry & Pineapple Sauce

I have been working on some Ohelo Berry ideas for the USDA. They are experimenting with growing them as a crop for the first time. This is one of many recipes that I developed using the ohelo berry. Unless you live in Hawaii, you are out of luck for sourcing this berry. It grows wild in mid-high elevations here. It is much like a cross between a cranberry and a currant. It has a slight tangy taste with sweet after notes, but does not  have a huge stand alone flavor on it's own. Thanks to Nancy Botticelli of Waimea for providing me with an abundance of her beautiful limes to play with too. 

Marinade: 

1/2 cup tequilla

1/2 cup lime juice

1/2 cup of honey slightly heated

4-6 Boneless Chicken Breasts or thighs. 

Sauce: 

1/4 cup finely diced shallots

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 cup of reserved marinade with 1 tablespoon cornstarch stirred in

1/2 cup grilled pineapple cut into medium dice (about the size of the berries.) 

1/2 cup Ohelo Berries (whole)

Marinate chicken in the marinade for 30-45 minutes (no more or the lime will start breaking down the chicken.)

Remove chicken from the marinade and prepare the sauce by adding all ingredients and cooking on low heat till slightly thickened. Keep out the Ohelo Berries till just before serving to maintain color and texture. 

Grill the chicken and then serve with the sauce. 

ACF Chef's Luncheon at Keauhou

Last week, the Kona Kohala Chef's Association had their monthly luncheon meeting at the Keauhou Beach Resort. Chef Cy Yamamoto put on quite the spread featuring an abundance of local products from Hawaii Island.

It started off with a talk in the kitchen by Chef Cy and his former boss, Chef Trask. They discussed sourcing and utilizing local products. Some of which were Hamakua Mushrooms, Ohelo Berries & Kuahiwi Ranch Premium Free-range Island Beef.

The menu for the luncheon included a Big Island Bounty Salad and Tropical Fruit Bar featuring an array of fresh and grilled island produce with an assortment of condiments and Mango Raspberry Vinaigrette.

The Entrees were Ono with Mango Basil Burre Blanc, Grilled Ginger Scented Chicken with Asian Ohelo Berry Caramel Butter Sauce and Roasted Kona Coffee Seasoned Kuahiwi Ranch Premium Free-range Island Beef with Sweet Soy Hamakua Mushroom Ragout served with Ying and Yang Potato Mash (purple and white mashed potatoes.)

Dessert was an Ohelo Berry Upside Down Cake with a Caramel Sauce.